French Dining & Etiquette

In Paris, the act of dinning is an art, a culture many of us Americans are not accustomed to. While my previous post highlighted my favorite foods, this post will offer insight as to how meals are eaten. Because this Travel Study program involves a homestay, we had the chance to dine four nights a week and learn about this unique facet of French everyday life.

First off, dinners are significantly longer - I'm talking 1-2 hours easily, but it wasn't uncommon with us to have two and half hour dinners with our host parents. Only a fraction of this time is spent eating, most of the time at the dinner table is talking. The French love conversation and discussion. I noticed that there is very little “small talk;” rather, our host parents jump right into talking about current events and political and social issues. I think the first night at my host parent’s apartment (literally a few hours after I had met them) they asked me my political inclination – I was shocked! While this subject would be taboo to discuss at the dinner table in the United States, they explained politics is a very common topic here in France. They loved to hear our opinions as Americans and didn't mind whether our political views were different from their own. That said, our dinners were not at all exclusive to political discussion. My host parents have shared a wealth of knowledge about Paris and they have been curious to learn more about the United States, too. Regardless of the subject, I have really enjoyed our dinners, which also serve as great practice for my French. (and the perfect time to try out some of the phrases I’ve learned at school during French 107: Advanced Oral Expression!)

As far as the actual food goes, dinner generally features the same components each night. First, the meal doesn’t begin unless everyone is at the table – this is something they are very adamant about. Therefore, if you plan to have dinner with friends, tell your host mom well in advance so they’re not waiting for you! Once the meal starts, it usually begins with an hors d'oeuvre consisting of a soup, gazpacho (cold soup), or a salad. Sometimes during our homestay dinners, this portion was skipped and included with the next course, the “plat principal” or main dish in English. This usually consists of a protein of some sort in addition to a side which could be rice, steamed vegetables, or salad. Sauces also seem important to Parisian dining and are usually accompanied with meat. The main course is followed by cheese. Eaten with bread, the cheeses we ate ranged from comté, blue cheese, and fresh goat cheese - all very delicious! Finally, the last course is dessert, which usually consists of ice cream, a tarte, or yogurt. It's interesting to note that yogurt is a common dessert in France! Take note: if you buy yogurt to eat for breakfast your host mom may give you a strange look. This may seem like a lot of food for one meal, but portion sizes are smaller than those in the United States. Don’t worry, I left every meal feeling full! And of course, as with every meal, a fresh baguette is present on the table.

Ratatouille

Lemon Chicken

On the nights when you’re dining out, you will get to experience Parisian café culture!

Cafés are not coffee shops; they have full menus (well, they do serve coffee but this is a place where you can eat a real meal). However, if you just want to buy a drink or a dessert so you can enjoy the nice weather outside, that’s fine too! Cafés are everywhere, with several present on each street. With outdoor spaces being very important in Paris, large awnings cover rows of colorful chairs and petite tables on the cobblestone streets. The chairs are set up like rows in a theater and face the street – prime for people watching. Like dining at home, it is not uncommon to stay at cafés for long periods of time, chatting with friends and enjoying your meal. The waiters at cafés also add to the experience. Bordering on what some may consider indifferent behavior, waiters don’t rely on tips and for that reason maybe aren’t held to the same standards of service you would expect in the United States. Tip and tax is included when they give you your bill, so you only need to pay the price on the ticket. Waiters will take your order and bring you your food, but do not expect them to check in on you during your meal like many American waiters do. Despite this, almost all the waiters we’ve had have been very nice! Café culture is unique to Parisian life and should be top priority to experience during your stay in Paris.

Breakfast

Rotisserie Chicken + Frites

Omelet + Salad

From the homestay to dining at cafés, Travel Study offers plenty of opportunities to learn about French culture through food. The nights spent with my host parents at the dinner table or at cafés with friends will be among my favorite memories. Unlike American meals, which are often quick or on-the-go, the French take time to enjoy their food and their company. With the busy, jam-packed days during Travel Study, meals in Paris have been a nice time to slow down and really appreciate everything around me.